A Town in Prayer: The 2017 Holy Week in Baliwag, Bulacan

Then Pilate took Jesus and had him flogged. The soldiers twisted together a crown of thorns and put it on his head. They clothed him in a purple robe and went up to him again and again, saying, “Hail, king of the Jews!” And they slapped him in the face. (John 19:1-3).

For many, Holy Week is such a long respite from the rigors of work. And as it usually falls during summer, it also means a grand vacation and a romance with the sun, the sea and the sand.

But to a devout Catholic faithful, Holy Week means busy days of obligation. All over the Catholic Philippines, the parishes are busy holding their local versions of Catholic-sanctioned Holy Week activities. And this is doubly true at the centuries-old St. Augustine Parish in Baliwag, Bulacan, a town known for its lavish Holy Week pageantry.

A Town in Prayer

The Semana Santa (Holy Week) of 2017 is a much-awaited religious activity in Baliwag, Bulacan. With its grandiloquent and vibrant sights and sounds, it is one of the, if not the grandest Holy Week celebration in the Philippines. The celebration this year, is spearheaded by the St. Augustine Parish headed by Rev. Msgr. Andres S. Valera, SLL, HP and the Hermandad de los Siete Dolores headed by Sir Knight Jorge Allan R. Tengco.

The Semana Santa began on Miyerkules ng Abo (Ash Wednesday), March 1, 2017. And for seven friday nights (March 1 to April 7), devotees from all walks of life, young and old, rich and poor, participated in the Daan ng Krus sa Parokya (Way of the Cross of the Parish). The whole town felt the solemnity of the holy days and became reflective and prayerful.

On Saturday, April 8, 2017, the Pagbasa ng Pasyon or simply, Pasyon - a sing-song reading of the passion, death and resurrection of Jesus Christ - was held at the St. Augustine Parish Church grounds. Led by the Kapatirang Nazareno, this signaled the start of the Pasyon for the whole town. However, Pasyon in Baliwag is a moribund tradition. Because of its length and archaic narratives, it is not very popular among the youth. Fewer and fewer families continue to sponsor Pasyon at their own homes. But when Pasyon is heard, passers by fell into contemplation and silently join in prayer.

On April 9, 2017, Sunday, was the Linggo ng Palaspas (Palm Sunday) which commemorates the triumphant entry of Jesus to Jerusalem. The blessing of the palms was done before the masses. In Baliwag, there is a simple procession from Bisita of Subic to the St. Augustine Church. Simplicity, however, should not be equated with lack of efforts. In Baliwag, the Linggo ng Palaspas procession was as pompous as all other processions. The procession passed through the streets of Lara, Calderon, Guerrero, Plaridel, and Ponce.

On April 12, 2017, at 5:00 P.M., Holy Wednesday, thousands of faithfuls and their carrozas started to converge at the Glorietta Park for the Holy Wednesday procession. The convergence of carrozas, bedecked with flowers, illuminated by lamplights, restaging biblical scenes with life-size images in tableau, was a spectacular sight. Tourists and locals agree that that of Baliwag is beyond compare.

The Holy Wednesday procession started at exactly 6:00 p.m.. As was the tradition, San Pedro, with his keys to heaven opened the procession as the first carroza. He was followed by the carrozas of the other apostles. Then, by carrozas depicting the miracles and ministries of Jesus Christ. Soon follow a hundred more depicting scenes leading to Christ's death.

Devotees, young and old, joined the spectacular procession reciting the rosary over and over until the long walk was over. From the St. Augustine Church, the procession passed through the narrow streets of Año 1733, Chico, Santiago, Buizon, Aquino, Plaridel, Lara, Gonzales, Old Cagayan Valley, and ended at Plaza Naning. The procession lasted for more than five (5) hours! It was an excruciating and tiring walk. Indeed, a penitential sacrifice, so to speak.

The Huwebes Santo (Holy Thursday), April 13, 2017, is oftentimes called Maundy Thursday, from the Latin word mandatum - to command. Because this day commemorates Jesus’ new commandment: “Love one another, as I have loved you.” At 5:00 P.M., the faithfuls celebrated the Misa sa Pagtatakipsilim sa Paghahapunan ng Panginoon at Paghuhugas ng Paa ng mga Apostol (Evening Mass of the Lord’s Supper and the Washing of the Feet of the Apostles). The washing of the feet of chosen persons represented the service and charity of Christ, who ‘came not to be served but to serve.’ The day was capped with the Visita Iglesia or the visitation of seven churches led by the Komisyon ng Kabataan.

The climax of Semana Santa is the Biyernes Santo (Holy Friday), April 14, 2017, with the grand Holy Friday procession at 6:00 p.m.. All carrozas which joined the Holy Wednesday procession also participated in the Holy Friday procession, but this time, with a more elaborate costumes and much more flowers and lights. Another carroza - the Santo Entierro - was added making the number of carrozas 117. Also, there are more devotees who joined the spectacular procession reciting the holy rosary over and over and holding colored candles (Pag-iilaw). From the St. Augustine Church, the procession passed through the narrow streets of Vergel de Dios, Trinidad, Rizal, Barrera, Racelis and ended at Plaza Naning. Thousands of devotees joined the procession while more than a million people witnessed the event on the sidewalk. The route, this time, is shorter.

There were fewer church activities on Black Saturday, April 15, 2016. At 8:00 A.M., there was a morning prayer at St. Augustine Church. Major activities started at 8:00 P.M., when the Easter vigil was commenced. Eucharistic celebrations and baptisms were also held during the vigil. The vigil which lasted until the Easter Sunday morning.

During the Linggo ng Pagkabuhay (Easter Sunday), April 16, 2016, the town became joyous again. At 4:00 A.M., faithfuls held the Prusisyon ng Salubong or simply, Salubong, (Filipino word meaning, meeting). It is a pre-dawn procession depicting the reunion of Christ and his Mother after the resurrection. The carrozas of the Risen Christ and Mary in two separate processions meet at St. Augustine church patio. In Baliwag, the carrozas of the Saints who witnessed Christ’s resurrection were also present like Mary Magdalene and the other Marys.

Upon, meeting the Risen Christ, an angel dramatically removed Mary’s mourning veil (dagit lambong) to symbolize the end of Mary’s grief. The unveiling is marked with fireworks display.

The Carrozas

Viewing Holy Wednesday and Good Friday processions in Baliwag, Bulacan is just like reading giant pages of the Bible. Mysterious and sorrowful biblical scenes are presented by a tableau of Saints positioned on top of a float, called carroza. 

While many Philippine towns hold their Holy Week processions with only two or three carrozas, Baliwag, Bulacan, usually held theirs with more than a hundred. This year (2017), there are 118. This is so because, unlike in other towns where the Catholic Church, itself, maintains carrozas, in Baliwag, these are owned and taken good care of by devout families, many of them affluent and influential. 

Carrozas, usually made of wood, come in various sizes and shapes and are traditionally carved all over in baroque and rococo designs. They are painted in gold and silver and bedecked with colorful flowers. In the past, carrozas were lighted with candles, but with the advent of modernity, it is now illuminated with electric lighting powered by mobile electric generators.

Baliwagenyos exercised certain degree of creativity, adaptation and innovation. For instance, a carroza re-staging the burial of Jesus Christ adapted a classic Korean-inspired theme. Some carrozas are styled in medieval fashion while others are in renaissance. Still some are in baroque and rococo. Another carroza re-staging Jesus walking on a stormy sea, made use of technology to recreate a tempestuous weather.

The Images

The Catholic church details guidelines for the iconography, clothing colors and emblems of the Saints. These details are generally based on the role they played in the Biblical scenes and even their later lives.

Despite the pomp, the organizers and the camareros made sure that the images follow Catholic rules. So St. Peter may still be identified with the keys he's holding and the rooster on his side. And St. Veronica, despite changes in her outfit during the week, still holds the veil bearing Jesus' face. And Mary Magdalene still holds a jar of alabaster from which she anointed Jesus; a book, a crucifix, a scourge or a skull which are emblems of her later contemplative life. In general the carrozas in Baliwag are big, and the images are at least close to life-size or even larger, but not exceeding seven feet. Their faces exhibit extravagant sorrow.

All of the Saints were magnificently dignified and idealized. Of course, the camareros who owned and took good care of the images would not want their carrozas to look the least beautiful.

Attending a Holy Week celebrations in Baliwag, Bulacan is such an exhilarating and spiritually uplifting experience. It was worth the time and effort. It also made me a better Catholic and better a Christian.

Once more Pilate came out and said to the Jews gathered there, “Look, I am bringing him out to you to let you know that I find no basis for a charge against him.” When Jesus came out wearing the crown of thorns and the purple robe, Pilate said to them, “Here is the man!” (John 19: 4-5).

There they crucified him, and with him two others—one on each side and Jesus in the middle. (John 19:18)

A jar of wine vinegar was there, so they soaked a sponge in it, put the sponge on a stalk of the hyssop plant, and lifted it to Jesus’ lips. (John 19:29).

Later, Joseph of Arimathea asked Pilate for the body of Jesus. Now Joseph was a disciple of Jesus, but secretly because he feared the Jewish leaders. With Pilate’s permission, he came and took the body away. He was accompanied by Nicodemus, the man who earlier had visited Jesus at night. Nicodemus brought a mixture of myrrh and aloes, about seventy-five pounds. Taking Jesus’ body, the two of them wrapped it, with the spices, in strips of linen. This was in accordance with Jewish burial customs. (John 19: 38-40).